The origin of perfume
The word perfume is derived from the Latin word perfumum, which literally means “to penetrate the smoke”.
Excavated in 2003 on the eastern shore of the Mediterranean (Italy), the remains of a perfume factory dating back 4,000 years were found in these records of ancient civilizations. the civilizational origins of perfume; In 1500 B.C., the use of perfume has become more and more common in several ancient civilizations, the Egyptians not only used perfume to bathe, but also used perfume to soak the sails of ships, and a boat passed by the incense drifting thousands of miles; After death, the body was wrapped in spices to perpetuate it to form the mummies that are visible today. The ancient Romans liked to apply perfume everywhere, even in the mortar used to build walls. Ancient Greek women would sprinkle perfume during religious ceremonies.
In the 14th century, the first modern perfumes were developed by mixing fragrance and alcohol at the behest of Queen Elisabeth of Hungary. From the 15th century to the end of the 19th century, perfumes were also widely used by Italians. In the 16th century, a strong animal resin fragrance appeared, and soon became popular in France, England and other European countries. In 1709, cologne was invented, because it was produced in Cologne, Germany, also known as “Cologne water”. The Age of Discovery and the Crusades brought the East; For those things that are foreign, not native to the world – spices, Europeans have always been happy to pursue them “in order to dye our food and celebrations with the colours and flavours of the other side of the world”. Most of the spices mentioned here refer to condiments such as pepper, cloves, cardamom, cinnamon, etc., especially pepper.
In the time of Louis XIV, perfume became a symbol of aristocratic status and social symbol, and he was fascinated by the unique and mysterious aroma of oriental spices. At that time, the ornaments and costumes of the nobles were popular to sprinkle perfume, and even the whole court was full of fragrance. At that time, perfume was believed to be effective in relieving fatigue, relaxing nerves and curing diseases, and people sprinkled perfume on handkerchiefs and carried them with them to make the whole body smell. With the development of the perfume industry, the cultivation of flowers became an important industry in the 18th century in the south of France and continues to this day.
The history of French fragrances
France, which occupies a unique place in the history of fragrance, leads the world in the development of French fragrance history due to its historical time, geographical location, economy and culture, and even the unique insights of the rulers. In the 19th century, volatile solvents replaced the early distillation method, changed the perfume and fragrance industry, and led to the birth of artificial synthetic fragrances in France, so that perfume is no longer limited to a single natural fragrance, and the perfume manufacturing industry has also grown rapidly, laying the foundation of the modern perfume industry. In the history of the development of incense, it is necessary to know that Grasse (French: Grasse), known as the capital of perfumery, is a town in the Alpes-Maritimes department of the Provence-Alpes-Cte Coast region in southeastern France. Grasse is the sub-capital of the Alpes-Maritimes and has the fourth largest population in the province. The inhabitants of Grasse are called Grassois. Grasse is known as the perfume capital of the world. In the All-France Flower City Flower Village Competition, Grasse won three flowers and was awarded the title of City of Art and History.
Grasse is the center of the French perfume industry and is known as the perfume capital of the world. Since the end of the 18th century, the perfume manufacturing industry in Grasse has been quite prosperous. Known as the “Perfume Capital of the World”, the town produces two-thirds of France’s natural aromas, which are used to make perfumes and food flavorings. Every year, the perfume industry generates more than 600 million euros in Grasse. The special microclimate of Grasse is ideal for flower cultivation. It’s warmer here. Jasmine is a key ingredient in many perfumes, brought to the south of France by the Moors in the 16th century. Now 27 tons of jasmine are harvested annually in Grasse.
Since the 19th century, the Guerlain family has won the favor of all the upper class of the time as a chemical, beauty, soap manufacturer and perfumer, and then became the royal perfumer. In 1970, Jean Jacques Guerlain founded ISIPCA (Institut Suprieur International du Parfum de la Cosmtique et de l’Aromatique Alimentaire), the leading perfumery school in the area of the Palace of Versailles in Paris. The legend lies in the fact that they have passed down the secret of their perfume from generation to generation and carried forward by future generations, constantly creating new recipes, so that the Guerlain family has accumulated a considerable artistic heritage in fragrance. The Guerlain family has gone through four generations;
Guerlain I: Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain stands for water as emperor
Guerlain II: Aimé Guerlain’s masterpiece Kiki
Guerlain III: Jacques Guerlain’s masterpiece One Thousand and One Nights
Guerlain IV: Jean-Paul Guerlain’s masterpiece Vetiver
A new generation of Guerlain: Thierry Wasser (the first person outside the Guerlain family) to create a little black dress
In 2016, Guerlain opened a fragrance boutique at Rue Saint Honoré 392. Paying homage to the Maison’s renowned art of fragrance since 1828, a timeless version of the art of five generations of perfumery and expertise that has been built over the past 200 years, the world of perfumers is open to the world with a modern style and symbolic meaning, and the mysterious world of the perfumer evokes the illusion of being in the environment in which the perfumer works. The application of modern technology to the fragrance industry, a digital fragrance experience area has been set up, so that fragrance fans can experience this unique aesthetic lifestyle in the fragrance atmosphere.
The Guerlain family sublimated the fragrance habits of the French aristocracy, and the boutique brands we are familiar with, such as DIOR, Chanel, etc., can be said to bring the aesthetic quality of fragrance life into our daily life, since Monsieur Dior unveiled the Miss Dior fragrance at the first fashion show in 1947, the spirit of perfume creation and the pursuit of top fragrance ingredients has continued to this day. Sixty years later, François Demachy, Dior’s Director of Perfumery and Perfumer, who took office in 2006, continues to embrace the noble and innovative spirit of its founding. Monsieur Dior: “The reason why I want to be a perfumer is that every woman can wear the clothes I design, and leave a beautiful fragrance.” François Demachy, Chief Perfumer at Dior, said; J’adore is a fragrance like no other, with an irresistible charm and a unique personality. Translating classic floral notes into never-before-seen captivating creations, exuding a mystical and enigmatic aura to create an ideal flower that does not exist in nature. J’ADORE is a classic floral fragrance that shows a variety of different faces, perfectly blending all the delicate floral scents, rich and sensual, and a tribute to the audacity of women. The Maison’s perfume bottle designers are also dressed in haute couture with the same level of excellence, and Monsieur Dior is persistent in wanting each unique Dior fragrance to have the same exceptional bottle design. Combining the essence of bespoke fashion and fine jewelry, the Dior perfume bottle is a special work of art that continues to bear the spirit of Dior to this day, offering the ultimate in luxury in limited editions.
OLIVIER POLGE, CHANEL’S FOURTH EXCLUSIVE PERFUMER, SAID; I love that perfumes are so concrete, real, handcrafted using earth, flowers and harvest to achieve this immaterial, untouchable concept. In the 2020 new “Chanel Gabrielle Gille Perfume”, Olivierpo Giant Fragrance is inspired by only wanting to retain the essence, go straight to the core of the fragrance and re-establish its sexy and charming image, the fragrance plays the role of tuberose as the soul, removing the green outer layer of tuberose metamorphosis and sublimation, which not only retains the vast natural atmosphere of the wilderness but is closer to the delicate texture of the modern metropolis as the main tone, harmonizing a warmer, softer, and still lingering new fragrance, as warm and dazzling as the sun. The bottle design is based on the ultimate luxury, with exquisite and transparent glass construction and transparent bottle design on all sides, so that the luster characteristics of the fragrance reveal confidence and brilliance. The N°5 is best known in the CHANEL fragrance collection, which was chosen in 1921 by Ernest Beaux, the first perfumer of N° 5, as the raw material of Grasse’s jasmine, the fragrance is a rich bouquet of flowers, containing neroli oil, baladamic tree flower, Grasse jasmine, May rose, sandalwood, vetiver, vanilla, etc., exuding an endless feminine fragrance. The fragrances of these two French boutique brands are like a haute couture uniform that combines the beauty of craftsmanship and the aesthetics of the trend, allowing the aspiring and eager supporters to enjoy the fragrance and bring the ultimate joy of life and show their personal confidence.
A modern trendy fragrance
Fragrance has been a part of our life, in recent years, the taste of fresh, relaxing notes are particularly loved by consumers, many brands are the most popular fashion circle admired, this brand to make the fragrance simpler, many popular flavor ingredients only 2-3, the smell characteristics of the interweaving of clear, thick and other aromas, this fragrance more emphasis on the fragrance (consumers), can be with their own occasions, wear, 2-3 fragrances stacked into a fragrance of their own exclusive fragrance, Just like what we wear in clothing, we can create our own dressing philosophy, and perfume has become a necessity in daily life, and the appropriate use of scents that can represent personal taste is a plus point of social aesthetic literacy.
Super Nose – Perfumer
Les Dieux crent les odeurs ,leshommes fabriquent les parfums
god’s current odours. men make perfumes
God created scents, and humans made perfumes
“Super Nose” is the creator of perfumery, the promoter of olfactory fashion, and another name for perfumer. Their inspiration and creativity determine the character, personality and trends of the fragrance. In the professional definition of the use of fragrances and accessories, the design and blending of flavor formulas, this definition will always make us feel stiff and without the artistic conception of the fragrance world! Chanel fragrance in the country of fragrance art is used; The craftsmanship of I AM A CRAFT perfumers cannot be extracted from books, but is based on scents and memories, like the transmission of knowledge, like a painter drawing with paint, and can unleash creativity through an infinite variety of raw materials. From the original essence to the fragrance elf, carefully shaped, precise dosage, is an intuitive, meticulous process, to define the perfumer. The fragrance spirit is the note in the stave, through the perfumer to compose the fragrance spirit of the pre, middle and back notes, in the exquisite craftsmanship of the bottle. The embodiment of abstract taste through the art of life, the continuation of visual images, and the surprise of life use are the finished products that integrate perfume technology, and it is also the action expression of art commodification, which is fragrance art.
Perfume Smell Creation is an art in itself, but it is inseparable from the support of science, especially organic chemistry and analytical chemistry, through the understanding of the chemical properties of aroma substances, we can extract it from natural products or synthesize aroma molecules by artificial methods. Perfumer needs at least five years of basic knowledge to develop, and the work of a perfumer itself is also a learning process, learning in daily creation, finding accidental fits in continuous attempts, and seeing new ideas in other people’s works.
professional conditions for perfumers;
- Aromatherapy is an effective way for people to improve their sense of smell
- Identify artificial and natural aroma capabilities and formulation properties
- Balanced development of the left and right brains, rational essential oil chemistry and sensual fragrance thinking
- Broaden your exposure to art appreciation and the beauty of craft design, and cultivate aesthetic ability
- Stimulate creative thinking and an open and loving attitude towards life
professional responsibilities of the adjuster;
- Making new perfumes is the most artistic art of a perfumer
- When a certain ingredient is used up, use substitutes to re-mix to maintain the long-term sales of the perfume.
- Perfumers must also mix the new ingredients with the original ingredients without being threatened by plant losses and raw material deficiencies.
The olfactory economy is the application of life aesthetics in commercial space, and when the flexibility of visual marketing is tired, the sense of smell is a new niche for manufacturers to compete. In the past, scent appeals were the patent of perfumes, but now enterprises, brands, and spaces have developed opportunities from the perspective of smell. People’s habits of paying attention to personalized taste life and using fragrance products have increased, which can be widely accepted by consumers in the home environment, triggering the vigorous development of the fragrance industry. The fragrance tide continues to heat up and the introduction of culture and art industry, across the functionality of fragrance essential oils, upgraded to the perceptual sense of smell and smart fragrance aesthetic concept, and produces a new type of cultural and creative fragrance industry.
The reference data for this article are from: Wikipedia/Urcome/INDBA International Perfumery Instructor Training Materials/Essential Oil Chemistry Book/Brand Website Information….etc.
